April 9, 2022
EMMANUEL, PORTOBELLO MARKET
AGE: OLDER GENTLEMAN
Coat salesman for the past eight years at Portobello Market.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Burby’s. I sell a lot of them, but never coats.
Q: What is the importance of fashion in London?
A: London is second to Paris and Milan and very popular. People come here with money for fashion.
EMMANUEL, PORTOBELLO MARKET
AGE: OLDER GENTLEMAN
Coat salesman for the past eight years at Portobello Market.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Burby’s. I sell a lot of them, but never coats.
Q: What is the importance of fashion in London?
A: London is second to Paris and Milan and very popular. People come here with money for fashion.
April 9, 2022
HANNAH GEORGE, PORTOBELLO MARKET
AGE: 20s
Born and raised in London, studied menswear design at Westminster, then studied in NYC before moving back to London. She wrote her thesis on the British Fashion history of Dandy.
Q: What is the importance of the overcoat?
A: It’s more common and bigger with men’s wear [such as] a traditional military jacket or material, or any wool tailor coat that fits, works.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: So many; skinny jeans, thinking 2000s are vintage, throwing clothes away that can be mended, when people purchase a fresh box from Zara every week that they’ll never wear, not attempting to dress for your body shape, but preferring to follow a trend instead. Also, not taking care of your clothes. Take care of them, they will last forever. Streetwear is not fashion, sportswear is not fashion, they’re functional.
Q: What is the importance of shoes?
A: I’m a shoe person, they can make or break an outfit. They shouldn’t be cheap. If they break, take them to a cobbler. Leather should last a lifetime. Kitten heels aren’t attractive, stilettos aren’t attractive.
Q: What is the importance of fashion in London?
A: Fashion has been incredibly important throughout London’s history; political movements, changing laws, the 60s’ Teddy Boys, punks, it all originated here. London is a year or two ahead of the trend. [The] “HIV: Choose Life” movement was recognized through fashion using t-shirts and events. It originated when George Michael wore the shirt during an interview. Throughout the Second World War, they had to use less fabric so you can tell a dress it authentically from the 40s because they had to use fewer seams so it couldn’t be altered. The UK had rushing till the mid-50s, this was common during the period. Fashion is one of the main reasons people come here. London is the fashion capital of the world.
Q: I thought that was Paris?
A: Have you seen Paris? Go there. It is not fashion.
HANNAH GEORGE, PORTOBELLO MARKET
AGE: 20s
Born and raised in London, studied menswear design at Westminster, then studied in NYC before moving back to London. She wrote her thesis on the British Fashion history of Dandy.
Q: What is the importance of the overcoat?
A: It’s more common and bigger with men’s wear [such as] a traditional military jacket or material, or any wool tailor coat that fits, works.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: So many; skinny jeans, thinking 2000s are vintage, throwing clothes away that can be mended, when people purchase a fresh box from Zara every week that they’ll never wear, not attempting to dress for your body shape, but preferring to follow a trend instead. Also, not taking care of your clothes. Take care of them, they will last forever. Streetwear is not fashion, sportswear is not fashion, they’re functional.
Q: What is the importance of shoes?
A: I’m a shoe person, they can make or break an outfit. They shouldn’t be cheap. If they break, take them to a cobbler. Leather should last a lifetime. Kitten heels aren’t attractive, stilettos aren’t attractive.
Q: What is the importance of fashion in London?
A: Fashion has been incredibly important throughout London’s history; political movements, changing laws, the 60s’ Teddy Boys, punks, it all originated here. London is a year or two ahead of the trend. [The] “HIV: Choose Life” movement was recognized through fashion using t-shirts and events. It originated when George Michael wore the shirt during an interview. Throughout the Second World War, they had to use less fabric so you can tell a dress it authentically from the 40s because they had to use fewer seams so it couldn’t be altered. The UK had rushing till the mid-50s, this was common during the period. Fashion is one of the main reasons people come here. London is the fashion capital of the world.
Q: I thought that was Paris?
A: Have you seen Paris? Go there. It is not fashion.
February 24, 2022
HYMY, BRILLIANT SALESWOMAN AT FRANKLIN TREE, BRICK LANE
AGE: UNKNOWN
Either Hymy owns Franklin Tree or works on commission because she was an excellent saleswoman. She talked me into a very boxy outfit I was unsure of, then taught me a few tricks on how to make it work. The smartest move she made was not telling me something looked good as a means of coercing me to purchase it, but telling me that a dress I loved did NOT look good on my person. She gained my trust and my money. Brilliant.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Denim shorts. Especially when they’re really, really short. What are they called?
Q: Booty shorts?
A: Yes, they look awful with people’s bottoms hanging out.
Q: What makes London fashion unique?
A: London is versatile with fashion. It brings back vintage and trendy.
Q: What is the power of shoes for an outfit?
A: I love shoes, they make an outfit. A plain black or boring outfit, for example, can become trendy and made with platform boots or heels.
HYMY, BRILLIANT SALESWOMAN AT FRANKLIN TREE, BRICK LANE
AGE: UNKNOWN
Either Hymy owns Franklin Tree or works on commission because she was an excellent saleswoman. She talked me into a very boxy outfit I was unsure of, then taught me a few tricks on how to make it work. The smartest move she made was not telling me something looked good as a means of coercing me to purchase it, but telling me that a dress I loved did NOT look good on my person. She gained my trust and my money. Brilliant.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Denim shorts. Especially when they’re really, really short. What are they called?
Q: Booty shorts?
A: Yes, they look awful with people’s bottoms hanging out.
Q: What makes London fashion unique?
A: London is versatile with fashion. It brings back vintage and trendy.
Q: What is the power of shoes for an outfit?
A: I love shoes, they make an outfit. A plain black or boring outfit, for example, can become trendy and made with platform boots or heels.
February 24, 2022
ALJA, EMPLOYEE AT VINTAGE PARADISE, BRICK LANE
AGE: 22
Alja is moved to London from Slovenia to pursue a career in dance. She moved just before the pandemic, therefore opportunities to be on stage were scarce. At the time of this interview, she had been working at Vintage Paradise in the Brick Lane Market since July 2020 and gets to do the two things she loves; dance and work with fashion.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Skinny jeans on guys, or worse, acid ripped jeans on guys. They’re both usually alright on women but never on guys. Why can’t they just stick to the baggy pants, you know?
Q: Sure. What is the importance of the overcoat?
A: It gives a more interesting look in general. It’s better to match and tone down the rest of the outfit.
Q: What do you see as the pillar of London fashion?
A: There are so many good ones and so many different ones. For me, I must say cargo pants. They’re the best thing ever and starting to be forgotten about.
Q: Where are the best places to shop in London?
A: Vintage stores or charity shops¹ because they’re where you can get the most authentic and unique styles.
Q: What makes London fashion unique?
A: There is so much diversity and mixing with everything. Everyone brings their own stuff and self and working here I love it because I get to see all of it, all day.
Q: What is the power of shoes for an outfit?
A: Shoes give a special touch to the whole outfit. They can be basic and still liked a bit more than other basic clothing because they give more incorporation to the outfit [than anything else].
charity shops¹ → “Charity shops” are the England version of thrift stores in the U.S. of A. However, it is less common to find an affordable charity shop. Instead, “vintage stores” overwhelm the city by retailing beautiful, yet very expensive clothing.
ALJA, EMPLOYEE AT VINTAGE PARADISE, BRICK LANE
AGE: 22
Alja is moved to London from Slovenia to pursue a career in dance. She moved just before the pandemic, therefore opportunities to be on stage were scarce. At the time of this interview, she had been working at Vintage Paradise in the Brick Lane Market since July 2020 and gets to do the two things she loves; dance and work with fashion.
Q: What is your biggest fashion pet peeve?
A: Skinny jeans on guys, or worse, acid ripped jeans on guys. They’re both usually alright on women but never on guys. Why can’t they just stick to the baggy pants, you know?
Q: Sure. What is the importance of the overcoat?
A: It gives a more interesting look in general. It’s better to match and tone down the rest of the outfit.
Q: What do you see as the pillar of London fashion?
A: There are so many good ones and so many different ones. For me, I must say cargo pants. They’re the best thing ever and starting to be forgotten about.
Q: Where are the best places to shop in London?
A: Vintage stores or charity shops¹ because they’re where you can get the most authentic and unique styles.
Q: What makes London fashion unique?
A: There is so much diversity and mixing with everything. Everyone brings their own stuff and self and working here I love it because I get to see all of it, all day.
Q: What is the power of shoes for an outfit?
A: Shoes give a special touch to the whole outfit. They can be basic and still liked a bit more than other basic clothing because they give more incorporation to the outfit [than anything else].
charity shops¹ → “Charity shops” are the England version of thrift stores in the U.S. of A. However, it is less common to find an affordable charity shop. Instead, “vintage stores” overwhelm the city by retailing beautiful, yet very expensive clothing.
February 17, 2022
LINDA BEE, OWNER OF LINDA BEE VINTAGE JEWELLERY & FASHION
AGE: 75
Linda learned fashion skills and developed a knowledge of the industry when she was a young girl. She credits her father the most, who manufactured crocodile skin handbags near Tottenham Court Road in Central London. Before the handbags, Linda and her family grew up in Italia.
Q: What role do overcoats play in fashion?
A: Has a lot to do with punk, authentic looks. [My friend] Vivienne Westwood talked a lot of rubbish but had great style. A grand overcoat always polished her looks.
Q: What role does fashion play in London?
A: It’s a part of London society. It’s how we express ourselves.
Q: What are your biggest fashion pet peeves?
A: When people purchase an expensive coat with a sewn-up plea and cross-stitch it.
Q: How do you mean?
A: They make a cross-stitch bottom at the bottom of the plea. It’s supposed to be split, not stitched, and then sometimes people sew in their seams and pockets and that wasn’t the intent of the design. A customer right before you, she’s actually a regular, had a cross-stitch on her coat and she looked awful. I couldn’t tell her because she’s a regular and I didn’t want to be rude but it was terrible.
LINDA BEE, OWNER OF LINDA BEE VINTAGE JEWELLERY & FASHION
AGE: 75
Linda learned fashion skills and developed a knowledge of the industry when she was a young girl. She credits her father the most, who manufactured crocodile skin handbags near Tottenham Court Road in Central London. Before the handbags, Linda and her family grew up in Italia.
Q: What role do overcoats play in fashion?
A: Has a lot to do with punk, authentic looks. [My friend] Vivienne Westwood talked a lot of rubbish but had great style. A grand overcoat always polished her looks.
Q: What role does fashion play in London?
A: It’s a part of London society. It’s how we express ourselves.
Q: What are your biggest fashion pet peeves?
A: When people purchase an expensive coat with a sewn-up plea and cross-stitch it.
Q: How do you mean?
A: They make a cross-stitch bottom at the bottom of the plea. It’s supposed to be split, not stitched, and then sometimes people sew in their seams and pockets and that wasn’t the intent of the design. A customer right before you, she’s actually a regular, had a cross-stitch on her coat and she looked awful. I couldn’t tell her because she’s a regular and I didn’t want to be rude but it was terrible.